Olives, Moss Greens and Browns; punches of Vibrant Reds and Blues and touches of Rustic Orange and Yellows.
The conception began while I was on a brief retreat in a cabin in upstate New York. It was a rented place from an artisan who had lived there for most of his life, working as a local pottery maker and craftsman. Throughout the house were some of his works; sculptured pieces and photographs inspired by the Southwest, native and Aztec traditions filled with rich colors found in nature around the cabin. From these colors and concepts, we began to build our own perception of this man’s life, conjuring up ideas of his travels, the things he may have owned or collected, how he dressed and so on. As a result, this season tells a story about a romantic, a wandering traveler, interested in the world around him and intent of preserving what he saw by reinterpreting it in his own dress and art. We played on the colors found in the house, within his work and throughout the heavily wooded area that was hauntingly beautiful. There is a really noticeable and pleasing contrast between these earth tones that lay a base for the more vibrant pieces throughout the collection.
One of the most striking, and important, is a Claret Red. We’ve custom developed a special woven fabric with one of our mills in Italy. The material composition and texture are something special; a boucle that fades into a plain weave Gray wool. I think it works well because we used it to cut a classic men’s peacoat silhouette which keeps the attention on the textile and off any distracting detailing. Often great colors or fabrics can get lost in over-designed pieces, but I think by using this incredible fabric that has such a striking color to it on a staple piece will really help the customer appreciate the garment as a whole.
Must-have Item For
A traditional, three-button stance topcoat that we constructed from a fairly heavy wool-nylon blend that comes from Italy. It’s an extra-tight weave with substantial weight that makes it an absolute essential for the cooler months of Fall/Winter. From a distance, it appears to be a Rich Brown color, but upon closer inspection you begin to notice this subtle, almost marled, effect going on with touches of Blue and Burgundy throughout random parts of the weave.
The second piece is a Tobacco-Toned leather carryall – the color is really striking as it mixes tones of Olive, Ash Grays and Mossy Browns. It's cut in a couple different colors and is one of those travel pieces that works with almost anything.
What is your design philosophy when it comes to color classics and/or color chaos?
When designing a menswear collection with various categories that include bags, small accessories and apparel, there is always a fine balance between mixing classic color combinations and this mentioned chaos of going all out and with color. It’s crucial that our bags and accessories work seamlessly with the apparel as these are the hallmark of our brand. Any offbeat or nontraditional color combo we decided to use for one category should fit well when styled with the other.
Color inspiration, for me, starts very early and is an integrated process from the moment I begin to form the abstract thoughts around a seasonal collection. It’s really like building one aspect on top of the other like a painting, until we settle on a combination that, overall, represents our initially perceived ideas. I tend to pick colors that I would wear. I’m somewhat of a traditionalist when it comes to men’s style – a great Navy is absolutely my favorite color – but I appreciate the touches of color that set a piece or collection apart. If it’s a crazy color, whether in the Red, Orange, Pink or any other family, I’m always willing to test it out as long as there is a strong cohesion and the color can effortlessly work with the products in all our categories.